Thursday, October 1, 2009

First Tiyul - Golan Hights

Shalom Shalom!

Hope everyone is doing well. I got back from the first IGF Tiyul (trip) which was spent in the Golans. The Golan region is in the north of the country, near the sea of Galilee (otherwise known as the Kineret). This region is rich in history, has some breathtaking landscapes and is rather controversial seeing as how some consider it to be occupied territory. This land was acquired from Syria after the 6 day war in 1967 and has been under Israeli conrol since. I'm sure that if you do a quick google search, you will easily find much literature about this ongoing debate - to give back land or not to give back land...THAT is ALWAYS the question in Israel.

We met at the B.C. at 7:00am (no, i'm not joking) and started on our trip. It takes about 3.5-4 hours (depending on traffic) to make it to the Golans. Our first stop was a place called Naharaim. This site is the first hydro-electric energy
station in Israel, established by Rothenberg in 1927. Another name for this site is "The Island of Peace" after the peace treaty signed between Israel and Jordan in 1994. This is also the place where in 1997 a Jordanian soldier opened fire on a group of girls on a school trip, killing 7, and wounding 6. Now there is small garden memorial to commemorate those girls in the shape of a flower with 7 petals.

Next was our first hike in Nahal El-Al – the south of the Golan Heights; named after Eli Cohen. Known for its two waterfalls - the black waterfall, which fall on basalt rocks, and the white waterfall, which fall on calcite (chalk) rocks. It was a great hike, about 4 hours, which we followed up with a relaxing dip in Hamei Tveria - a natural hot spring, known worldwide for its therapeutic qualities. After all of this physical activity we got to the Kibbuts where we were staying (Kibbutz Gonen), unpacked, showered, had dinner and watch a movie called 'The Syrian Bride'. It is an interesting film depicting the complexities of the druiz people living in Israel. If you ever get a chance, it's definitely a movie worth watching :)

Day 2 began with a different hike - this one being a 'water hike'. Another 4 hours, of hiking, chatting, sloshing through water, and sweating like a (kosher) pig - it was great! And what better way to decompress after a long day of hiking then by visiting the Golan winery and tasting some delicious kosher wine! I was actually at this winery last year on my birthright trip, but it was nice to visit again and taste some new wines. After getting a pleasant buzz and easing my muscles, we were back at the kibbutz for dinner and some group activities. We made a human pyramid, got to know each other a little more, and hung around enjoying the beautiful evening!

The last, and personally my favorite day, was today. We started of by spending about 3 hours with a man by the name of Effi Eitam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Effi_Eitam). Effi is quite the striking character. He is very much on the political right, is incredibly intelligent and chooses his words carefully when talking, and is open and delightful in his own way. Effi accompanied us to Mt. Bental (a former Israeli army base from which you can see former bunkers, trenches, and Syria itself, including the UN compounds). We got to see the ENTIRETY of the Golan Heights and he shared with us his views on the situation regarding this territory. I have to say that when you hear about this section of the country on the news, it really doesn't sound like much - a couple mountains here and there, mostly agricultural land, and a lake. But when you see this land with your eyes, experience the beauty of the terrain, and realize the significance this place plays in the survival of the Jewish state - it really makes you think twice. Aside from the fact that this territory is crucial to Israel in terms of security, it is also home to the Kinneret which provides Israel with 1/3 of its water (a rare commodity here). We sat in Jewish ruins dating to the First Temple and got to hear Effi's personal story of how he defended this land during the Yom Kipur war in 1973. The stories captured in history books and the debates which are so easy to listen to on the tv actually came to life before my eyes. I saw Syria, the border between it and Israel, the mangled remains of tanks from the Yom Kipur war, and the bright yellow signs warning of the hundreds of land mines scattered along the territory.

Getting back on track though - Effi Eitam. Right! Incredible speaker. He was completely open with us, honest, patient and inspiring. He told us about how he fought in the Golans during the Yom Kipur war. The thousands of Syrian forces were making their way up the Golan mountains and it was just him and 3 rounds of amo for a bazooka. He hid in the bushes and just as the first tank of the Syrian fleet was coming up to him, he shot at it and at a second one behind it. If you know a bit of the history of the Yom Kipur war, you will remember that for some unexplained reason, the Syrian forces got to the Golans, there was a very bitter and bloody battle, but for some reason - the Syrians just *stopped* and did not advance. Here is the truth guys - after Effi shot the bazooka and blew up the first tank - that is when the Syrian army unexplainedly stopped for 2 hours (which allowed Israel to gather its forces and eventually fend of the Sryians). This is just one of the several stories he told us - all of which were shaking and powerful. He is orthodox (though he was not born religious) and one of the things he told us, is how one needs to remember to be humble before G-d. Meticulous and carefully planned military strategy is absolutely vital, but one must not forget to leave room for G-d almighty. When someone asked how Israel managed to beat Syria - his reply was: "I have studied many theories and read many books about this war, and the only answer I can come up with is - it was a mircle." Regardless of whether one agrees with this political platform or not, this is a man who is DEEPLY devoted to the State of Israel and the insurance of its survival.
He also took some questions in regards to Iran- he does not believe that any kind of sanctions will deter the regime and that swift, pre-emptive military action is the only thing which will stop this huge threat. In short - listening to Effi Eitam speak was very moving and a huge pleasure. I even got to take a picture with him ;-)



Lastly and briefly, we stopped at a spot called Tel Chai, which was the site of a Kibbuts in the 1920's. This site is famous for a battle which took place on March 1st 1920, because it is the first place, since the time of the Second Temple, where Jews took a stand against invaders and fought back! Read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tel_Hai

Okay folks, this has been quite the entry and I need to get some rest. This post doesn't really do the Tiyul full justice but it will have to do for the time being. In short - it was a great trip! :-D

2 comments:

  1. Exciting!!! Loved this entry. Yep, Golan Heights are a very disputed territory... tough stuff to judge

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  2. Also, one thing I have to give Effi Eitam's party, although I (obviously) don't agree with it politically, is that it doesn't support civil disobedience or violence towards to the IDF (by illegal settlers).

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